先生家 Chez Monsieur
現在回想, 我最早認識的法國菜就是所謂的bistrot料理.
甚麼是bistrot料理呢? 就是對法國菜最尋常的印象: 蛙腿, 焗烤蝸牛, 肉醬, 鴨肝, 功夫鴨腿, 烤雞, 牛排薯條… 這類很常見的.
多年前我的巴黎第一家餐廳是在Les Halles, 名字忘了, 法國朋友帶去的, 喫了甚麼也不記得, 就對一個牛骨髓印象深刻. 因為在台灣沒嘗過, 也說不上喜歡不喜歡, 是個奇特的滋味.
很長一段時間朋友來巴黎, 指定的都是這類幾乎不分季節的菜色: 哪裡有好喫的蛙腿, 蝸牛, 鴨肝. 而這類的傳統菜在巴黎逐漸退守消失, 雖然還是有一些較頑固的老派客人, 然而總是不敵新派料理的鮮麗盤飾, 出奇口味, 更容易討好網路世代.
我沒打算捍衛所謂的法式傳統料理, 好喫與否才是標準.
先生家餐廳Chez Monsieur最近剛由一個在一星餐廳Les Climats擔任二廚的日本師傅掌杓, 去試試看.
雖然我對日本廚師會多一點信心, 但是這類廚藝學校基本課程的菜往往不會有很多驚喜, 只要沒有驚嚇就算過關.
先生家蛙腿, 肉醬, 青花魚沙拉, 前菜一一都是沒有驚嚇過關.
主菜中, 白汁燉小牛blanquette de veau馬鈴薯強過小牛; 魟魚翅配酸籽也是中規中矩, 行禮如儀. 七小時燉羊肉過鹹.
正在想, 喫得有點悶. 沒想到甜點是驚喜: 草莓起司蛋糕, 開心果杏桃瓦片, 還有最最經典的橙酒火燒可麗餅, 意外的好.
餐廳中午的客人多半是附近的上班族, 或是年紀大一點的附近居民. 不難看到一個人來邊用餐邊看報的老先生.
經理嫻熟地招呼各方客人, 同時盯著服務是否做到位. 潔白無瑕的桌布, 擺設齊整的杯盤, 老舊而維護得好的牆壁, 玻璃間隔的木桌雅座, 牆上的掛衣架. 空氣裡有淡淡的舊時代的氣氛.
這個舊時代的氣氛在疫情的惶惶陰影裡, 多了一絲對未來的未知感和宿命感.
過去一年半法國倒了不少餐廳, 不少廚師, 餐飲人離開這個他們曾經熱愛的行業. 而仍在這裡苦苦支撐的人在端出每一道菜給客人時, 難免對明日此時是否仍有盤子可端, 仍有客人可伺候有著難言的無奈.
可能是我想太多了, 連菜的滋味都有幾分無奈了.
同時也有10000部Youtube影片,追蹤數超過2,910的網紅コバにゃんチャンネル,也在其Youtube影片中提到,...
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感謝
昨晚巴黎天空閃電暴雨, 和朋友在家裡喫粽子喝四神湯, 香檳紅酒也沒少, 就錯過了這則令人高興的消息.
感謝美國的疫苗及時雨! 不僅及時, 還加碼加量,
想到我還在到處喫日本拉麵和日本廚師的法國餐廳, 現在要補上感謝美國的餐廳… 只是, 巴黎好像除了麥當勞, Five Guys, Ralph Lauren餐廳, 也找不出其他好一點了?
想來想去, 巴黎只有一個較有名的美國廚師Daniel Rose, 餐廳Chez La Vieille和Le Bourse et La Vie也不知道還在不在. Chez La Vieille的法式經典燉小牛Blanquette de veau曾經讓我非常驚艷, 堪稱巴黎最好之一.
沒關係, 中午先來一大桶家庭號肯德基!
除了感謝美國, 也謝謝台灣鄉親們這幾個禮拜的自主管理, 讓疫情逐漸壓住, 才一個月就讓確診人數逐漸下降, 放眼世界, 疫情爆發之初能做如此出色的國家沒幾個呢.
雖然一直有人在唱衰台灣, 但是我始終對台灣有信心.
另一個要謝謝台灣鄉親的是我們三巴團購的伊比利火腿反應熱烈, 進入最後一天的訂購. 聽到一些先前買到嘗到的讀者們的留言, 很高興這個火腿在這個自主封城的時刻陪大家.
如果還想下單, 請參考留言板「巴黎逛逛街」連結.
我們已經看到隧道盡頭的曙光了, 再忍一忍, 相約中秋一起烤肉!
圖文不符之解封後到處亂喫
blanquette de veau 在 PassionTimes 熱血時報 Facebook 的最佳解答
【Pinewood Wine - 一田一味道】
購買連結:https://bit.ly/38b32uq
熱血Marketplace價:HK$864
================
※ 產品包括:
Julienas 2018 杜得‧諾丁 茱麗安娜 紅酒 2018
Fleurie 2016 杜得‧諾丁 花田 紅酒 2016
Morgon 2016 杜得‧諾丁 摩根 紅酒 2016
================
Julienas 2018 杜得‧諾丁 茱麗安娜 紅酒 2018
GRAPE VARIETY
Gamay
CONTROLLED APPELLATION
Of the 10 wines of Beaujolais, this appellation Juliénas is produced on 4
towns, with a total area of 594 ha. These wines are renowned guard and often
surprises compared to its more famous neighbors sometimes (Moulin à Vent,
Saint Amour ....)
LOCAL SOIL
Granitic Marl
WINE-MAKING
Traditional. Manual harvest and maceration in vats for 10 days (temperature controlled). Maturation in stainless steel tanks for 9 months.
CHARACTER AND STYLE
The ruby robe is deep and concentrated. The palate is both delicious
and concentrated. Good constitution, balance allows us to appreciate both
the delicacy of the fruit and its origin hinting a good
constitution confirmed its fine and precise tannins. The set ends with
a slightly spicy finish and hints of licorice and underbrush.
AGEING AND SERVICE
To drink young or to keep 4-5 years. Temperature of service : 13-14°C
It goes well with white meats and red meats but also a sausage or a rabbit
stew with success. Game birds, after 3/4 years of aging will also be a good
compromise.
================
Fleurie 2016 杜得‧諾丁 花田 紅酒 2016
GRAPE VARIETY
Gamay
CONTROLLED APPELLATION
Fleurie is the third appellation of Beaujolais in terms of area. Its wines are
known for their finesse, thanks to a northwest-southeast exposure. Some like
it very fresh, others prefer at 14-15 ° C to better appreciate its fruity notes.
LOCAL SOIL
Granitic soil
WINE-MAKING
Traditional. Handpicking. Followed by a semi-dry method of maceration.
Whole grapes are vinified in stainless steel tanks to produce fruity wines.
Maturation in stainless steel tanks for 9 months.
CHARACTER AND STYLE
The color is intense ruby color. The nose is pleasant with aromas of red fruit
(raspberry, strawberry and cherry). On the palate, this wine is subtle and very
elegant. Its floral and fruity notes make this a pleasant Fleurie wine, all in
balance.
AGEING AND SERVICE
To drink young. Temperature of service: 12-13°C
This Fleurie marry well with rabbit, veal meatballs or a ‘‘blanquette de veau’’.
Otherwise, try it with poached eggs, one of the treasures of Burgundy!
================
Morgon 2016 杜得‧諾丁 摩根 紅酒
GRAPE VARIETY
Gamay
CONTROLLED APPELLATION
Extended on 1079 hectares and located on only one commune (VilliéMorgon) this ‘‘name’’ is different compared to some others Crus of the
Beaujolais. It is a wine able to ageing by nature, spread out over the 5 climates
of its appellation. The gamay generates generous and fruity wines.
LOCAL SOIL
Grounds resulting from the schist disintegration with basic prevalence
(manganese and iron oxide) which gives this style suitable for name (In
French one says wine that it " morgonne ").
WINE-MAKING
Traditional. Manual Harvest-picking and maceration in thermo-controlled
tanks during 10 days. After a pneumatic press, maturation in stainless vats
for 10 months.
CHARACTER AND STYLE
Typical with a constant colour almost hiding a nose fine, discrete but
concentrated (black cherry, morello sherry, violet) it is a generous and vinous
wine, which reveals once poured in glass
The mouth is immediately greedy and reveals notes of red wild fruits (wild
strawberry and blackberry) and some kirsch. The unit is silky on the palate.
Concentration and pleasure stay on very light notes of liquorice and prune at
the end of the mouth. Balanced and generous, two or three years of guard
will not waste the pleasure…
AGEING AND SERVICE
To drink young or to keep 5-6 years. Temperature of service: 12-13°C
It accompanies with success the pork-butcheries and the good red meats
(duck, lamb, and good meat cooked a long time like in the past too….) the
« coq au vin » or the dishes cooked in wine sauces are recommended after a
few years. However a very simple good cheese like a « Camembert » cheese
will be a good guaranteed moment!
================
購買連結:https://bit.ly/38b32uq
熱血Marketplace價:HK$864
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blanquette de veau 在 コバにゃんチャンネル Youtube 的精選貼文
blanquette de veau 在 大象中醫 Youtube 的最佳解答
blanquette de veau 在 大象中醫 Youtube 的最佳解答
blanquette de veau 在 LA BLANQUETTE DE VEAU - By Deli Cuisine - Facebook 的推薦與評價
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blanquette de veau 在 Ma Blanquette de veau - YouTube 的推薦與評價
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